Thursday, November 29, 2012

Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp memorial - Journeying into a grim past



Every one of us has heard about Auschwitz. The Swastika immediately flashes to our minds, and we can’t even begin to imagine the grim past that this infamous concentration camp in Poland has witnessed. However, not many may have heard about one of the first of such concentration camps that set up – the prototype, so to say. Sachsenhausen was the first new camp to be set up after Reichfuhrer-SS Heinrich Himmler was appointed chief of German Police in 1936.

Inmates of this concentration camp included Soviet prisoners of wars, Jews, Jehovah’s witnesses, homosexuals, gypsies, artists, etc. Between the period of 1936 to 1945, tens of thousands of these prisoners were brought to Sachsenhausen of which over twelve thousand died. Sachsenhausen was not built with the intent of making it an extermination camp. However, in 1943 a gas chamber was constructed to kill large numbers of prisoners.

The infamous slogan on the entrance gate


At the entrance you will see the sign “Arbeit Macht Frei”, the slogan meaning “Labour makes (you) free". The camp was very well, a 9 ft stone wall was built, and there was an inner perimeter of an electric fence. Dogs and the guards themselves patrolled the space in between.  Prisoners were used for labor of all kinds. There is a gravel path where the prisoners would have to test prototypes of shoes to be worn by the police officers. These prisoners would carry extremely heavy loads on their backs and walk this path. Sachsenhausen also played host to the largest counterfeit operation ever. American and British currencies were counterfeited to large extents in an effort to undermine those economies.

The paths where shoes were tested


The camp memorial today has preserved a large number of objects and documents retrieved from the site. In addition, some parts of the barracks, which were destroyed, have been recreated to show the conditions in which these inmates lived. A memorial was built for the Soviet Prisoners of war with their famous “inverted red triangle” symbols painted on it.  It is always a point of contention as to why a memorial has been specially constructed only for this class of inmates, and why not the rest.  There is however a new memorial built for all victims.

The memorial for Soviet prisoners of war victims


A staff worker cleaning at the New Memorial


An escape operation of humungous proportions was planned by some of the prisoners at Sachsenhausen. Spearheaded by Bertram Arthur “Jimmy” James, this was an operation that was carried out by digging a tunnel. James participated in the “Great Escape” from Stalag Luft III. However, he was among the 73 of 76 escapees who were caught. Of the 73 who were caught, Hitler asked Himmler to execute more than half. James survived, and this was one of 12 failed escape attempts for him. Sachsenhausen was where he finally succeeded.
James’s  “A Moonless Night” describes the Sachsenhausen operation in amazing detail.

Dunkley tells us about Sachsenhausen


How to get there – Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp Memorial is in Oranienberg, Germany. We took a walking tour, and went with Nigel Dunkley from Insider Tours, Berlin. The tour started off at the Hackescher Markt S Station in Berlin, and then we headed off to the Hauptbahnhof, the main station where we met a couple of other tourists who were going with us. We took the train to Oranienberg, and a short bus ride later we were there.
Nigel Dunkley is a former British Military attaché in Berlin, and he has very interesting anecdotes to narrate. The visit to the memorial was more intriguing thanks to his fantastic narrative.

Monday, November 26, 2012

Comic Books Anyone?

We all know about Tintin, one of the world's most popular comic book characters. The Belgian reporter and his dog Snowy, along with a host of other characters have enlivened many a lazy afternoon. George Remi, under his pen name Herge created Tintin in the early 1900's and the series featuring the young reporter is flavoured with slapstick humor as well as some cultural and political commentary.
In 1991, the City of Brussels, along with the Belgian Comic Strip Center started a project, in which murals depicting popular Belgian comic book characters like Tintin, Lucky Luke, and Gaston will be painted on the walls of buildings.
While the project started as an attempt to decorate some of these buildings, it soon turned into a vivid reminder to locals and tourists alike, that several talented comic artists had their ties with the Belgian capital.

The Tintin mural located at Rue de l'Etuve 33 in Brussels 


The buildings with murals are located along the "Comic Book Route", and most of these 50 buildings are situated within the City Center. The city of Brussels has so much to offer to a tourist. Walking along the comic book route, you can explore the city at your own pace. "Pro Velo", the Brussels tourist association organizes a two hour bike ride which takes you along the comic book route, as well.
If you're absolutely adore Tintin, you can visit the Tintin boutique near the Grand Place, and buy memorabilia. 

Thursday, November 15, 2012

Divine Diwali - Madurai Meenakshi Sundareshwarar Temple

This Diwali was different from any other we've celebrated. We drove to Madurai to visit the magnificent Meenakshi temple, which is truly one of the most beautiful temples in India. Madurai is located 140km from Tuticorin, and with the extemely well maintained NH45B, the drive takes less than two hours.

The East side entrance to the Meenakshi Temple 



The Meenakshi temple is believed to have been founded by Indra himself, and it was built in the form it is today, by the Nayaker dynasty who ruled Madurai in the 1500's and 1600's. Thirumalai Nayaker was the ruler who was responsible for expanding the temple to what it is today. The temple is dedicated to Goddess Parvati as Meenakshi (with eyes like fish), and her consort Shiva as Sundareshwarar. This is one of the very few temples where the main deity is a Goddess with the male deity as her consort.
There are 10 Gopurams, some of which were built during the Pandya rule, surrounding the sanctum.
One of the Gopurams of the Meenakshi Temple















We were quite lucky because Diwali is one of the three occasions in the year when Meenakshi is decked up in her most beautiful form, with a diamond crown and a diamond parrot sits on her hand.

The temple tank is called "Porthamarai Kulam" or the Pond with the Golden Lotus.

The Porthamarai Kulam - The Pond with the Golden Lotus





One of the famous halls in the temple - the Hall of Thousand Pillars. It actually contains 985 pillars, each carved with figures such as a lion, Lord Ganesha, Shiva, and yalis, or mythical lions.

Entering the Hall of Thousand Pillars

The beautifully sculpted pillars in the Hall of Thousand Pillars





















The temple, with its architectural beauty, and lyrical charm succeeds in making you feel truly blessed. After the darshan of Goddess Meenakshi and Lord Shiva, we spent more than a couple of hours just walking through the cool stone interior of the temple. Thousands of devotees thronged to see the Goddess in all her splendour on Diwali day, and the temple was a carnival of fesitivity. However, even amidst the crowds and activity, there is a harmony which engulfs you as you walk through this lovely temple.
I haven't gone into the history and architectural details of this temple. You can read about it at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Meenakshi_Amman_Temple , and also http://www.maduraimeenakshi.org/




Friday, November 9, 2012

Some things to keep in mind while renting a house/apartment

We've moved enough times for me to be able to write a thesis on renting an apartment. And, what's more, we experienced it in the mother of all cities, Mumbai. So I can safely say that I'm a qualified writer-about-relocation. Anyway, each time, we learn something new, and ensure that it's done right the next time around. While finding a house on rent in Tuticorin has been drastically different from the same activity in Mumbai, I can say with some confidence, that some basics don't change. In most Indian cities, the middle man or the broker, or agent does exist. So it's only a lucky few who get away without dealing with a broker and finding a house through someone they know.

I've taken it that you know which locality you want to look in, in terms of distance from your workplace, children's schools, budget for the rent, etc.

Here are a few tips to help you find the house you want :

Communicate your requirements very clearly : One of the most common traps we all fall into, is the ASSUME trap. Well, you know what they say - it makes an ass of you and me. Let the broker, or whoever else you're dealing with know what exactly you need. Unless you tell him you need parking space for TWO cars, you will wander around aimlessly and see five houses with space for one or no car. This applies to small, yet significant things like direction the house faces (if you believe in that), car park, top floor or middle floor - what's your preference, do you need cupboards that are already installed in the walls, etc. Some places have a policies regarding pets. So, check that too, if you have pets. Save yourself the time and energy and state your requirements clearly the first time.

Now how do you decide what your requirements are? While some things are the same irrespective of where you're staying, such as parking space, a lot of things vary with the city and the locality that you're going to be in.

Top floor or middle floor ? Well this certainly depends on several factors. If you're in a city like Mumbai where most of the houses you are shown are of old construction, and will certainly have cracks in the ceiling and walls, you may want to skip the top floors simply because monsoon presents a host of problems, especially on the west and north western sides. Seepage, (we've even had dripping ceilings), fungus on the walls, and constant stale odour are some of them.
If you're lucky enough to check out one of the new state of the art type constructions, you may not face this issue. So take a call once you know the approximate age of the building.

Furnishing - A lot of people these days are on the move, thanks to new job opportunities in different parts of the country or outside. It becomes a lot easier when you don't have too much furniture of your own. Several home owners in bigger cities have furnished or semi-furnished houses to let out, so depending on what you need, you can take your pick. Fully furnished houses often come with the whole package - Air conditioners, Sofa sets, dining table set, Television, Cots, Mattresses, Refrigerators, kitchen cabinets etc. Semi furnished houses are those that perhaps just have the basic requirements such as kitchen cabinets, and maybe sometimes built in wall cupboards in the bedrooms, i.e. nothing extra has been installed.
So if you know you're going to be moving soon, and don't want to hoard too much stuff, a furnished or semi furnished apartment is ideal for you.
However, what I've noticed in a smaller town is that even small things like doors on kitchen shelves cannot be taken for granted, and is considered "an extra". "Cupboards" in the kitchen and bedrooms are nothing but shelves made in the wall itself, which are open. If you're OK with it being as is, then it's fine, otherwise you'll have to either strike a deal with the landlord to get the doors done, or do it yourself.

Electrical work - Many a time, we just assume that we can buy an appliance, plug it in and it will magically work. However, don't forget that some groundwork will need to be done for things like an air conditioner. Check if there are provisions made for it, like the hole drilled for a split AC, or a provision for a window AC. In a place like Tuticorin where power cuts are as well known to us as family, and for that matter in most parts of Tamil Nadu, it is important to check if there is a connection drawn for an Inverter. Also, make sure that before you rent a place, you mentally draw up a picture of where you will place what appliance, at least approximately. For instance, you may not have the space to keep your Microwave oven and your Mixer on the same platform, and you may need to add a bracket to place on of them. And also check there are enough electrical points to connect all these appliances. While this may seem trivial, it is always better to sort these things out before you move in.

I'll add in a quick note about plumbing too - provisions for washing machines, water purifiers etc are little things you need to watch out for.

Internet and phone connectivity - Of course, it is true that these days the internet reaches places that even God doesn't. But it helps to do a quick check of what providers service the locality, and how good they are. For digital TV connections, you may have a common antenna already present in the building, and you won't have to buy another one. If there isn't one, you can make sure you ask your DTH provider for a separate antenna.

Neighborhood - This actually encompasses a whole range of stuff. It's not always possible to find perfect neighbors, and you never know until you move in anyway. So if you're considering renting a place, do make the effort to find out who your neighbors will be, and perhaps have a quick chat with them about what they think of the complex, and where the shops are, etc. You get the drift, right?
Are there stores selling the basic everyday requirements within a five or ten minute walk?
Another thing we've found extremely useful, although it is not always possible, is to evaluate your prospective house and neighborhood after a rainy day. You'll see whether the roads get water-logger, or whether there's seepage, etc. Like I said, this evaluation is not always possible, but if it is, then definitely do it.

Legal aspect - In bigger cities, a "Leave and License Agreement" is always drafted and has to be registered legally. So while drafting it, ensure you agree on all the clauses with the landlord before you sign anything and register. It is important to read every single line very carefully (the broker will insist that it's just a "standard agreement" and rush you to sign it, but don't fall for that), and only then sign it. In smaller towns, they don't have a registration process, but at least make sure you have an agreement drafted with the appropriate paper with stamp duty, and signed by both parties.
Taking these precautions just help you avoid any misunderstanding and trouble later on.


So you've now read about some points you can keep in mind while evaluating a house you want to rent. This list is by no means comprehensive, and you may come across some new things when you're looking out. But it'll get you started, and as we go along, I'll add more things that I encounter.
Above all, trust your instinct. If you don't get a good vibe about a place, or a person, remember you're probably right.  So good luck !











Monday, November 5, 2012

Keeping the faith - Our Lady of Snows Basilica, Tuticorin

When you walk along the quiet Beach Road in Tuticorin, you are engulfed by the radiance of the Basilica of Our Lady of Snows. It is a magnificent Portuguese style Basilica that is more than 400 years old, and it houses the Lady of Snows who is known to guard the villages along the coast in this region. The imposing structure is white and blue in colour, and has exquisite architectural beauty.



According to http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Our_Lady_of_Snows_Basilica , the Church was given the status of Basilica by Pope John Paul II, when it celebrated it's 400th anniversary in 1982. 


Do read more - official website http://www.snowsbasilica.com/history.html