Wednesday, December 19, 2012

Muttom - A place I won't forget anytime soon

One lazy afternoon when I was channel surfing, one Tamil channel was showing the popular '80s flick "Kadalora Kavithaigal" which featured Satyaraj and Rekha. I'm not anywhere close to being a fan of Satyaraj, and I get bored out of my wits watching movies where the epicenter is a tiny village and all they do is run around the fields holding goat kids in their hands while looking all coy. What? I'm just being honest. So I was about to move on in my extremely focussed channel surfing activity when the scene in the movie shifted to this beach which made my jaw drop. So while the naive and "pure" character of Satyaraj tried to impress the belle, I kept my eyes open for any indication on where the scenes were shot. It wasn't until the last scene where he has to bid her goodbye at the railway station that I finally found out. Muttom. Not batting an eyelid when the scene was enacted, I was rewarded for my patience and persistence. As the train pulled out of Muttom, I whipped out my laptop to see where it was.


The sand, surf and the blue-green sea at Muttom

Located around 35 km from Kanyakumari, the drive to this tiny coastal village along the shores of the Indian Ocean is as scenic as can be. It takes close to an hour from the Cape Comorin, and the roads are fairly good. We'd just visited the temple at Sucheendram, and when we asked for directions to Muttom, an auto rickshaw driver very helpfully told us "Aiyo, Muttom ah? Anga edukku poreenga? Waste-u.. Sema Waste-u.. anga onnu illa saar." ("Aiyo, Muttom ? Why are you going there? There's nothing there to see." (We Tamilians love to generously sprinkle "aiyos" in our conversation, and he was no exception.) So Arjun, not one to give up, asked him the directions to the beach, and the guy wouldn't stop his helpful banter - "Anga andha padam eduthaanga, avlodaan.. beach mattum daan" (They shot the movie there, there's only the beach, nothing else). But we finally got some rough directions out of him and sped off. We weren't about to be discouraged by one guy who thought it was "waste-u". I wavered a little bit, wondering if the place really wasn't going to be worth, but Arjun wouldn't have any of it. And I'm glad for his singleminded persistence, because I'd have missed out on one of the most amazing experiences ever. 




Yes, true, there is nothing else to "see" there apart from the beautiful stretch of blue-green waters. But that alone is worth the drive. It is untouched, and clean, with nothing taking away from its brilliance. The rocks on the beach add to its charm, and you can spend hours just sitting there and watching the waves rise and fall. Muttom is a fishing village with a lighthouse that's approximately 100 years old. 


The road less travelled...



The rocks on the beach tempt you to strike a meditative pose...

Of course, I'd like to thank the director of the movie, Bharathi Raja for introducing the place to movie-buffs and beach fanatics like us. No one makes a film in a rustic setting better than him. I'm not about to post the picture that I had taken of me posing like Satyaraj on the rocks. 

Monday, December 10, 2012

Manapad - Of fishing and folklore

I've seen pictures of the bluest of blue seas and sandy beaches when friends visit Krabi or Koh Samui, and I've often wondered when I'd get to see those turquoise waters. Because there's some "pichle janam  ka raaz" and bad karma, perhaps, that has always resulted in the cancelation of my extremely well-planned Thailand trips. Not once, but thrice. And I haven't really had a chance to visit any other beautiful beaches since, so I'd kind of reconciled that maybe it's not just Thailand. Maybe the Gods of the Seas had decided that since this girl refused a thirsty soul water in her last birth, instead of making her a lizard in this one, let's instead decline all requests to visit beautiful water bodies.
But you know what? Looks like they've decided to forgive me for all those sins because of my exceedingly good deeds in this birth. Because when I saw the waters at Manapad, Tamil Nadu, I was rooted to the spot. OK, Thailand enthusiasts, this is by no way an article of comparison or any such thing. I am still praying fervently that I be let to visit Koh Samui. But it's just that this is probably the bluest sea I've seen.

Blue waters - Ah, life is good. 


Until recently, I hadn't even heard about this tiny fishing village, which is home to one of the most famous shrines in this part of the country, The Holy Cross Church.


The Holy Cross Shrine, Manapad



Manapad is at a distance of 60 km from Tuticorin, and takes about two hours, thanks to the dismal condition of the State Highway to Kanyakumari. From Tiruchendur, it's a little over 20 km, and the last stretch of road, just leading to the village is in particularly bad shape. A few kilometers in between are OK to drive, but mostly nothing to write home about.

We go where the road takes us...


We saw him/her on the way, and he/she didn't seem too thrilled to have visitors. 


In 1540, a Portuguese ship is believed to have been caught in a horrible storm, which led to the snapping of its hind mast. The captain of the ship vowed to construct a Cross out of the splintered mast if they escaped alive, and is known to have done just that. A couple of years later, St. Francis Xavier came to Manapad for missionary activity, and built a shrine with the captain's Cross at the altar.
With the completion of the Church in the 1580's, the reverend appealed to have a relic of the True Cross (i.e. the Cross on which Jesus is believed to have been crucified) brought to Manapad, and it did arrive from Rome via Cochin in 1583. Every year, this relic is publicly displayed from September 1st to 14th.


Early evening at Manapad


The boats back after their day out in the sea.


The tiny village that exists today consists mainly of fisherfolk. Owing to its picture perfect beach, Manapad has seen some films shot here. Some time after I visited, I found out that my favorite director Mani Ratnam is shooting parts of his film "Kadal" in Manapad. Hmm... I obviously wish I had a run-in. But well, for now, the gods are appeased enough to stop blocking my entry into beautiful beaches. So Mani Ratnam will have to wait. 

Friday, December 7, 2012

Strolling down Stroget, Copenhagen

Copenhagen is one of my favourite cities. I don't know why. Sometimes when you're in a place, you just feel good, right? You feel happy. And please, let's not get into one of those "happiness is a frame of mind" discussions - you know what I mean. This was one of those places. I especially loved walking down Stroget, the car-free, pedestrians only street that is a shopper's haven. Well I didn't shop much, actually, at all, except for an umbrella because I was the only fool without one in the January snow.
Stroget is not just a shopping street; it's a Copenhagen experience you cannot miss.



Sometime in the 1950's or '60's, the street was shut off to vehicle traffic owing to Christmas crowds, and the clever authorities realized it was a far better idea to leave it that way, without really making any public noise about it. Sneaky, right? But it has to be one of the best things that happened to the city, because when you walk down Stroget, you'll know what I mean.
The Stroget is actually a collection of streets branching off from one main road - Fredriksberggade, Gammel Torv/Nytorv, Nygade, Vimmelskaftet, Amagertorv and Ostergade.

I'm sure you've heard of the famous Illums Bolighus. They make these eye-wateringly delicious looking kitchenware, glassware, household furnishings and other goodies that I could only gaze at longingly from the outside (Partly because they may not have allowed a shabby looking hot-chocolate-clutching backpacker inside). Stroget is home to Illum Bolighus, The Royal Copenhagen Porcelain Factory (another one of those magnificent places I may not have been allowed into) and Magasin du Nord, some of the city's and perhaps the world's most expensive stores. Of course you'll find the H&M's and other similar places where you can dare to set foot, as well.

But my favorite part of Stroget was Konditeri La Glace - cake heaven. This is the most ridiculously overpriced bakery/confectioners' that I've been to, but also, the most fabulous. If there's a place where I wouldn't drown in my own tears for having shelled out 100 DKK for a cake, it's this. They make the most delicious layered cakes, and while I sat there nibbling at a piece (absolutely SLOWLY, because I never wanted it to finish!), and sipping divine hot chocolate, I was in heaven.

One end of Stroget has international designer stores like Gucci, and Chanel, again territory where I'd have been eyed suspiciously. But if you're as into people watching as I am, it's an interesting experience to just gaze at those immaculately dressed Danes walk in and out of these stores.

At some point down the road, I also came across some musicians performing outside one of the stores. I stood and listened for a good fifteen minutes, they were excellent!

Winter, spring, summer or fall, whether it's snowing or raining, or whatever else, you will see people walking down Stroget. "We will wear twenty five layers, and carry umbrellas, but we will walk, and we will shop" is the motto here, and I love it. 

Thursday, November 29, 2012

Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp memorial - Journeying into a grim past



Every one of us has heard about Auschwitz. The Swastika immediately flashes to our minds, and we can’t even begin to imagine the grim past that this infamous concentration camp in Poland has witnessed. However, not many may have heard about one of the first of such concentration camps that set up – the prototype, so to say. Sachsenhausen was the first new camp to be set up after Reichfuhrer-SS Heinrich Himmler was appointed chief of German Police in 1936.

Inmates of this concentration camp included Soviet prisoners of wars, Jews, Jehovah’s witnesses, homosexuals, gypsies, artists, etc. Between the period of 1936 to 1945, tens of thousands of these prisoners were brought to Sachsenhausen of which over twelve thousand died. Sachsenhausen was not built with the intent of making it an extermination camp. However, in 1943 a gas chamber was constructed to kill large numbers of prisoners.

The infamous slogan on the entrance gate


At the entrance you will see the sign “Arbeit Macht Frei”, the slogan meaning “Labour makes (you) free". The camp was very well, a 9 ft stone wall was built, and there was an inner perimeter of an electric fence. Dogs and the guards themselves patrolled the space in between.  Prisoners were used for labor of all kinds. There is a gravel path where the prisoners would have to test prototypes of shoes to be worn by the police officers. These prisoners would carry extremely heavy loads on their backs and walk this path. Sachsenhausen also played host to the largest counterfeit operation ever. American and British currencies were counterfeited to large extents in an effort to undermine those economies.

The paths where shoes were tested


The camp memorial today has preserved a large number of objects and documents retrieved from the site. In addition, some parts of the barracks, which were destroyed, have been recreated to show the conditions in which these inmates lived. A memorial was built for the Soviet Prisoners of war with their famous “inverted red triangle” symbols painted on it.  It is always a point of contention as to why a memorial has been specially constructed only for this class of inmates, and why not the rest.  There is however a new memorial built for all victims.

The memorial for Soviet prisoners of war victims


A staff worker cleaning at the New Memorial


An escape operation of humungous proportions was planned by some of the prisoners at Sachsenhausen. Spearheaded by Bertram Arthur “Jimmy” James, this was an operation that was carried out by digging a tunnel. James participated in the “Great Escape” from Stalag Luft III. However, he was among the 73 of 76 escapees who were caught. Of the 73 who were caught, Hitler asked Himmler to execute more than half. James survived, and this was one of 12 failed escape attempts for him. Sachsenhausen was where he finally succeeded.
James’s  “A Moonless Night” describes the Sachsenhausen operation in amazing detail.

Dunkley tells us about Sachsenhausen


How to get there – Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp Memorial is in Oranienberg, Germany. We took a walking tour, and went with Nigel Dunkley from Insider Tours, Berlin. The tour started off at the Hackescher Markt S Station in Berlin, and then we headed off to the Hauptbahnhof, the main station where we met a couple of other tourists who were going with us. We took the train to Oranienberg, and a short bus ride later we were there.
Nigel Dunkley is a former British Military attaché in Berlin, and he has very interesting anecdotes to narrate. The visit to the memorial was more intriguing thanks to his fantastic narrative.

Monday, November 26, 2012

Comic Books Anyone?

We all know about Tintin, one of the world's most popular comic book characters. The Belgian reporter and his dog Snowy, along with a host of other characters have enlivened many a lazy afternoon. George Remi, under his pen name Herge created Tintin in the early 1900's and the series featuring the young reporter is flavoured with slapstick humor as well as some cultural and political commentary.
In 1991, the City of Brussels, along with the Belgian Comic Strip Center started a project, in which murals depicting popular Belgian comic book characters like Tintin, Lucky Luke, and Gaston will be painted on the walls of buildings.
While the project started as an attempt to decorate some of these buildings, it soon turned into a vivid reminder to locals and tourists alike, that several talented comic artists had their ties with the Belgian capital.

The Tintin mural located at Rue de l'Etuve 33 in Brussels 


The buildings with murals are located along the "Comic Book Route", and most of these 50 buildings are situated within the City Center. The city of Brussels has so much to offer to a tourist. Walking along the comic book route, you can explore the city at your own pace. "Pro Velo", the Brussels tourist association organizes a two hour bike ride which takes you along the comic book route, as well.
If you're absolutely adore Tintin, you can visit the Tintin boutique near the Grand Place, and buy memorabilia. 

Thursday, November 15, 2012

Divine Diwali - Madurai Meenakshi Sundareshwarar Temple

This Diwali was different from any other we've celebrated. We drove to Madurai to visit the magnificent Meenakshi temple, which is truly one of the most beautiful temples in India. Madurai is located 140km from Tuticorin, and with the extemely well maintained NH45B, the drive takes less than two hours.

The East side entrance to the Meenakshi Temple 



The Meenakshi temple is believed to have been founded by Indra himself, and it was built in the form it is today, by the Nayaker dynasty who ruled Madurai in the 1500's and 1600's. Thirumalai Nayaker was the ruler who was responsible for expanding the temple to what it is today. The temple is dedicated to Goddess Parvati as Meenakshi (with eyes like fish), and her consort Shiva as Sundareshwarar. This is one of the very few temples where the main deity is a Goddess with the male deity as her consort.
There are 10 Gopurams, some of which were built during the Pandya rule, surrounding the sanctum.
One of the Gopurams of the Meenakshi Temple















We were quite lucky because Diwali is one of the three occasions in the year when Meenakshi is decked up in her most beautiful form, with a diamond crown and a diamond parrot sits on her hand.

The temple tank is called "Porthamarai Kulam" or the Pond with the Golden Lotus.

The Porthamarai Kulam - The Pond with the Golden Lotus





One of the famous halls in the temple - the Hall of Thousand Pillars. It actually contains 985 pillars, each carved with figures such as a lion, Lord Ganesha, Shiva, and yalis, or mythical lions.

Entering the Hall of Thousand Pillars

The beautifully sculpted pillars in the Hall of Thousand Pillars





















The temple, with its architectural beauty, and lyrical charm succeeds in making you feel truly blessed. After the darshan of Goddess Meenakshi and Lord Shiva, we spent more than a couple of hours just walking through the cool stone interior of the temple. Thousands of devotees thronged to see the Goddess in all her splendour on Diwali day, and the temple was a carnival of fesitivity. However, even amidst the crowds and activity, there is a harmony which engulfs you as you walk through this lovely temple.
I haven't gone into the history and architectural details of this temple. You can read about it at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Meenakshi_Amman_Temple , and also http://www.maduraimeenakshi.org/




Friday, November 9, 2012

Some things to keep in mind while renting a house/apartment

We've moved enough times for me to be able to write a thesis on renting an apartment. And, what's more, we experienced it in the mother of all cities, Mumbai. So I can safely say that I'm a qualified writer-about-relocation. Anyway, each time, we learn something new, and ensure that it's done right the next time around. While finding a house on rent in Tuticorin has been drastically different from the same activity in Mumbai, I can say with some confidence, that some basics don't change. In most Indian cities, the middle man or the broker, or agent does exist. So it's only a lucky few who get away without dealing with a broker and finding a house through someone they know.

I've taken it that you know which locality you want to look in, in terms of distance from your workplace, children's schools, budget for the rent, etc.

Here are a few tips to help you find the house you want :

Communicate your requirements very clearly : One of the most common traps we all fall into, is the ASSUME trap. Well, you know what they say - it makes an ass of you and me. Let the broker, or whoever else you're dealing with know what exactly you need. Unless you tell him you need parking space for TWO cars, you will wander around aimlessly and see five houses with space for one or no car. This applies to small, yet significant things like direction the house faces (if you believe in that), car park, top floor or middle floor - what's your preference, do you need cupboards that are already installed in the walls, etc. Some places have a policies regarding pets. So, check that too, if you have pets. Save yourself the time and energy and state your requirements clearly the first time.

Now how do you decide what your requirements are? While some things are the same irrespective of where you're staying, such as parking space, a lot of things vary with the city and the locality that you're going to be in.

Top floor or middle floor ? Well this certainly depends on several factors. If you're in a city like Mumbai where most of the houses you are shown are of old construction, and will certainly have cracks in the ceiling and walls, you may want to skip the top floors simply because monsoon presents a host of problems, especially on the west and north western sides. Seepage, (we've even had dripping ceilings), fungus on the walls, and constant stale odour are some of them.
If you're lucky enough to check out one of the new state of the art type constructions, you may not face this issue. So take a call once you know the approximate age of the building.

Furnishing - A lot of people these days are on the move, thanks to new job opportunities in different parts of the country or outside. It becomes a lot easier when you don't have too much furniture of your own. Several home owners in bigger cities have furnished or semi-furnished houses to let out, so depending on what you need, you can take your pick. Fully furnished houses often come with the whole package - Air conditioners, Sofa sets, dining table set, Television, Cots, Mattresses, Refrigerators, kitchen cabinets etc. Semi furnished houses are those that perhaps just have the basic requirements such as kitchen cabinets, and maybe sometimes built in wall cupboards in the bedrooms, i.e. nothing extra has been installed.
So if you know you're going to be moving soon, and don't want to hoard too much stuff, a furnished or semi furnished apartment is ideal for you.
However, what I've noticed in a smaller town is that even small things like doors on kitchen shelves cannot be taken for granted, and is considered "an extra". "Cupboards" in the kitchen and bedrooms are nothing but shelves made in the wall itself, which are open. If you're OK with it being as is, then it's fine, otherwise you'll have to either strike a deal with the landlord to get the doors done, or do it yourself.

Electrical work - Many a time, we just assume that we can buy an appliance, plug it in and it will magically work. However, don't forget that some groundwork will need to be done for things like an air conditioner. Check if there are provisions made for it, like the hole drilled for a split AC, or a provision for a window AC. In a place like Tuticorin where power cuts are as well known to us as family, and for that matter in most parts of Tamil Nadu, it is important to check if there is a connection drawn for an Inverter. Also, make sure that before you rent a place, you mentally draw up a picture of where you will place what appliance, at least approximately. For instance, you may not have the space to keep your Microwave oven and your Mixer on the same platform, and you may need to add a bracket to place on of them. And also check there are enough electrical points to connect all these appliances. While this may seem trivial, it is always better to sort these things out before you move in.

I'll add in a quick note about plumbing too - provisions for washing machines, water purifiers etc are little things you need to watch out for.

Internet and phone connectivity - Of course, it is true that these days the internet reaches places that even God doesn't. But it helps to do a quick check of what providers service the locality, and how good they are. For digital TV connections, you may have a common antenna already present in the building, and you won't have to buy another one. If there isn't one, you can make sure you ask your DTH provider for a separate antenna.

Neighborhood - This actually encompasses a whole range of stuff. It's not always possible to find perfect neighbors, and you never know until you move in anyway. So if you're considering renting a place, do make the effort to find out who your neighbors will be, and perhaps have a quick chat with them about what they think of the complex, and where the shops are, etc. You get the drift, right?
Are there stores selling the basic everyday requirements within a five or ten minute walk?
Another thing we've found extremely useful, although it is not always possible, is to evaluate your prospective house and neighborhood after a rainy day. You'll see whether the roads get water-logger, or whether there's seepage, etc. Like I said, this evaluation is not always possible, but if it is, then definitely do it.

Legal aspect - In bigger cities, a "Leave and License Agreement" is always drafted and has to be registered legally. So while drafting it, ensure you agree on all the clauses with the landlord before you sign anything and register. It is important to read every single line very carefully (the broker will insist that it's just a "standard agreement" and rush you to sign it, but don't fall for that), and only then sign it. In smaller towns, they don't have a registration process, but at least make sure you have an agreement drafted with the appropriate paper with stamp duty, and signed by both parties.
Taking these precautions just help you avoid any misunderstanding and trouble later on.


So you've now read about some points you can keep in mind while evaluating a house you want to rent. This list is by no means comprehensive, and you may come across some new things when you're looking out. But it'll get you started, and as we go along, I'll add more things that I encounter.
Above all, trust your instinct. If you don't get a good vibe about a place, or a person, remember you're probably right.  So good luck !











Monday, November 5, 2012

Keeping the faith - Our Lady of Snows Basilica, Tuticorin

When you walk along the quiet Beach Road in Tuticorin, you are engulfed by the radiance of the Basilica of Our Lady of Snows. It is a magnificent Portuguese style Basilica that is more than 400 years old, and it houses the Lady of Snows who is known to guard the villages along the coast in this region. The imposing structure is white and blue in colour, and has exquisite architectural beauty.



According to http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Our_Lady_of_Snows_Basilica , the Church was given the status of Basilica by Pope John Paul II, when it celebrated it's 400th anniversary in 1982. 


Do read more - official website http://www.snowsbasilica.com/history.html




Monday, October 29, 2012

Small town, big heart...

So I was telling you about how crazy the house hunt is turning out to be. However, there is one thing I noticed in the few days that we talked to brokers; brokers will be brokers. No matter which city, which town, perhaps even which village (shall I show you that field, it has the perfectly planned irrigation system, it is much bigger than this one, and you get the field caretaker's hut free with it. Free Free Free...), brokers are going to be all alike, and worried only about their commission.
I guess what I'm trying to say is, to judge a city's people, DO NOT go by how the brokers behave with you.
There was a friend of a colleague who offered to show us around a few houses through some contacts he had (remember how I told you - you have to know a guy who knows a guy). He roamed the town with us tirelessly, one day with his wife even, while we faced disappointment after disappointment. That's when I realized. This guy's actually doing this because we're known through friends. I'm sure he doesn't need the commission, and if he does, I don't think it's his sole motive. That day after looking around while we sat in his house, sipping Bovonto (oh yeah, Google it!), we had our first encounter with the warmth and humaneness that people in these parts unfailingly exhibit.
Big cities make us cynical. For instance, while thirstily taking in the cool, fruity goodness of Bovonto, I couldn't help wondering why they were entertaining us. They had literally accompanied us from house to house for over three and a half hours, just so that we would have the support of someone who knows the place. And the young wife, chatty as she was, was nonintrusive about what she asked me. But I couldn't just shake off the feeling that this wasn't normal. Why are they so friendly?
I know, that when you're new to a place, it is always better to be wary of whom you get acquainted with, and not entirely wise to be fully trusting.
But I guess, sometimes you instinctively know. And when that genuine warmth and friendship beckons you, it's very difficult not to shush your wary alter ego. 

Sunday, October 28, 2012

Tiruchendur

A 40 km drive away from Tuticorin, is the temple town of Tiruchendur. The temple of Lord Subramanya Swamy or Senthil Andavan (Murugan) stands majestically on the shores of the Indian Ocean, and is one of the six most sacred abodes of the deity. "Aarupadaiveedu"or the six sacred abodes of Lord Murugan are Palani, Tiruchendur, Swamimalai, Tirupparamkundram, Pazhamudircholai and Thiruthani.
The Thiruchendur Murugan temple on the shores of the Indian Ocean
Of these six abodes, Tiruchendur is the only one which is not on a hill. The main deity of the temple is Senthil Andavan or Murugan. There is also a Panchalingam shrine (5 Shiva Lingas), to which Lord Murugan is known to have prayed. 


The temple is a place of pilgrimage for lakhs of people from South India, and especially on auspicious days people throng the shrine to seek the blessings of Lord Murugan. Beware of swamis who come and offer to take you into the sanctum sanctorum by jumping the queues, and offering you a special "archana". For those who want to skip the long snaking lines, there are tickets of higher denominations that can be purchased. 
For the crowd that it sees, the beach at Thiruchendur is surprisingly clean, and if you happen to visit in the evening, the sunset is a sight not to be missed. 
Thiruchendur can be reached by road from Tuticorin (40km), Tirunelveli(55km), and Kanyakumari(75km). Buses also ply from Madurai, Chennai, Trichy and Coimbatore. 

During the Tsunami of December 2004, the temple remained miraculously unaffected, despite the water level opposite the main sanctum being higher than the ground level of the sanctum. 

The Indian Ocean

Simple yet delicious snack of Boiled Peanuts , mixed with onions, tomatoes and coriander , being prepared at one of the many makeshift stalls on the beach! 
There is rail connectivity as well, from Chennai (Thiruchendur Express).

(Source : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thiruchendur_Murugan_Temple)

Saturday, October 27, 2012

The House Hunt begins...

One would think that after four separate house hunts in a city like Mumbai, finding a place in Thoothukudi will be a breeze. Well, apparently not. Because there are about seven houses available for rent at any given point of time. Of those three will be on the fringes of the town where it's pretty deserted, two will have a dingy feel to them, one won't have place to park a vehicle, and one will have water problems. Anyway, RANT OVER. I didn't want to sound discouraging at all, promise. But I have to share my first hand experience, don't I?
In Tuticorin, the key is that you need to know a guy who knows a guy. It's all word of mouth, and there ain't no 99acres or magicbricks to help you. Perhaps because the options are limited. All this said, it's not impossible to find a house in Tuticorin to your tastes. It's all about the timing, if there's a house around the time you're looking, then you're lucky.
Some of the areas we've seen and liked are Bryant Nagar, and Teachers Colony. The beginning parts of Millerpuram are nice too, but not so much the interiors.
Since the town has a radius of about 5 km, you're never too far from anything, but it helps to know which areas are nicer to stay in.
There are brokers/agents who show you houses, but not all really care about whether you like the house or not; it's about their commission. I guess that's the case in any city, but we had some not-so-good experiences here in particular, what with one guy actually saying "there's one house in the area where you don't get regular water supply, it's a huge bungalow with excellent furnishing. Do you want to see?" I stopped listening at "no regular water supply". Simply because there are areas where there is a regular water supply! What a way to sell something! Dude, atleast be subtle. Clearly the brokers here could do with a lesson in Sales and Marketing.
A lot of houses here have the provision for an inverter to be installed. You remember the horrific power cuts we discussed? People here seem to have resigned to the fact that they are not going to be at the receiving end of too much electricity supply for their houses. "Too much?" you may ask. But well, it's all relative.
We've only just begun the search. Let's hope something clicks soon! 

Thursday, October 25, 2012

First Impressions...

And we're here! On landing in Madurai, we were picked up from the airport and covered the distance of around 140 km in less than 2 hours, thanks to the extremely good road between the two places. The chatty driver told us about life in Tuticorin.
Today's my first day here, and I feel like I'm part of a Tamil film. I'm just waiting for Surya to materialize from around the corner on his Royal Enfield. I've visited this part of the country years ago, although not Tuticorin, but close enough, and while I knew approximately what to expect, it's still different when you come to live here.
There are two main roads, the Victoria Extension(VE) Road, and the Palayamkottai Road, where the majority of shops and offices are located, and the rest of the town is covered in a 5km radius around these roads. We are currently staying in a hotel called DSF Grand Plaza, on the VE Road, and it's pretty nice. Over the next few days we need to find ourselves a house, and move in.

View of Tuticorin town from DSF Grand Plaza


One of the major issues here is the 10 to 12 hour power cuts every day. It's quite unbelievable, considering there are so many thermal power plants here (I saw atleast 4 on my way here yesterday!). We have already heard horror stories about the summer time, when it's difficult to sleep and do pretty much anything else because of these power cuts. I should probably sneak into my husband's office during the day time at sit non-intrusively in a corner, while the rest of them work. Ssshhh!
Another first impression, which I can say with reasonable confidence won't change, is the delectable food ! I've had all of two meals here, and I'm floored. If this is how the dosas and pongal are going to be, then well, I'm quite tummy-happy. We've heard a lot about the "parottas" that are served in several "night clubs" (Yeah even I was wondering about that, but "night clubs" in Tuticorin mean small restaurants that serve excellent local delicacies after 7 pm).
Tuticorin, aka Thoothukudi, is home to one of the most important ports in the country, and its economy mainly depends on shipping, fisheries, salt pans. Thoothukudi is also known as the Pearl City, because it was earlier a major location for pearl diving.
In a nutshell, my first impression, while one of skepticism, is still hopeful. Having lived in big cities all my life, I am obviously apprehensive about adjusting to a new life. While that sounds extremely arrogant, I'm just being honest. What is different about this place, is that people here do give a damn. Traits that are quite difficult to find in a big city, like helping out a random stranger and politeness (Oh, sweet Lord, where did that go?!) flow in abundance here.
Here's to a new beginning ! 

Saturday, October 13, 2012

Anticipation...

So it's final! We're moving down south, to the pearl city of Tuticorin. For those who consider anything south of Madhya Pradesh to be "Chinnai", well this isn't. It's about 600km south of "Chinnai". Here's a conversation I had with one of the guys at work, (oh well, ex-work! hurrah!):
Me: So, we're moving out of Bombay, to a town in Tamil Nadu called Tuticorin. It's a port town, in case you haven't heard about it.
Ignorant I-only-know-about-Chinnai-dude: Oh, but you could have worked from Chennai, na?
Me: This isn't Chennai. I'm moving to a different place. It's a 12 hour train journey from Chennai.
Ignorant blah guy: Oh, Ok. Anyway, good for you, you must be used to the Chennai weather, na? For us it will be very difficult in a place like that.
Me: <thinking to myself - HOW? I've never lived in Chennai! I have lived in Bangalore, which is nothing like Chennai, and then in Bombay, where you also live, and hence will know about the weather.> Hmmm.. yeah, I guess.
Ignorant blah guy: So both your husband's and your parents live in Chennai?
Me: No. Err.. I've got to run, bye!

Phew. I mean, I know that if someone told me they were going to live in XYZ-pur up North, I probably wouldn't know better than to assume it was a part of Delhi. But after being told it wasn't, I might just get the point.

Anyway...getting back to the point of this post, Tuticorin it is!!!!!!! After deciding that we would take the big leap, I've been reading up so much about the town that I know the names of various localities by heart. Tuticorin is going to be such a drastic contrast to Bombay, that it will probably feel like a permanent vacation. Well the boredom of having none of the recreational options that Bombay has will set in. But perhaps it is time to live that simpler life for a while and experience it. It's destiny's way of saying get over the damn rush and take some time to smell the coffee.

Just one more week to go before the move. More about the town and the beautiful shores of Southern India once we're there :)